Crochet Sunflower and Daisy Flower Basket Bag: Free Pattern for an Intermediate Crocheter

There is something quietly magical about carrying a bag that looks like a garden. This crochet sunflower and daisy flower basket bag is exactly that — a structured, ribbed tote overflowing with handmade blooms, vines, and leaves that cascade over the rim like a freshly cut bouquet frozen in yarn. The caramel-brown bag body is worked in back-loop-only single crochet for a deep vertical rib texture, and the top is crowded with large golden sunflowers and classic white daisies, each flower crafted separately and assembled into an irresistible garden-in-a-basket illusion.

This bag is a showstopper for farmers markets, garden parties, spring outings, or gifting to the flower lover in your life. If you are comfortable working in the round, making simple flat circles, and assembling 3D components, this project is well within reach. The pattern is detailed, the stitch counts are confirmed at every step, and every technique is explained inline so you never need to look anything up.

Difficulty
Advanced Intermediate
Time
10–14 Hours
Hook Size
3.5mm
Yarn Weight
DK / Light Worsted
Finished Size
20cm Wide × 18cm Tall

Gauge

20 sc × 22 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) square
Hook: 3.5mm
Yarn: DK weight / Light Worsted (Weight 3)

Gauge matters most for the bag body. Flowers are decorative and exact sizing is flexible, but swatch the body first to ensure your finished bag lands near the stated dimensions. Adjust hook size up or down one size if needed.


Materials

Yarn (all DK weight / Light Worsted, Weight 3):

  • Caramel/tan brown — approx. 200g (bag body and handles)
  • Golden yellow — approx. 80g (sunflower petals, centers base)
  • Dark brown or black — approx. 20g (sunflower spiral centers)
  • White — approx. 60g (daisy petals)
  • Pale yellow — approx. 20g (daisy centers)
  • Green — approx. 50g (leaves, vines, stems)

Notions:

  • 3.5mm crochet hook
  • 2.0mm crochet hook (optional, for tighter daisy petals)
  • Stitch markers (at least 4)
  • Yarn needle (tapestry needle)
  • Scissors
  • Fiberfill stuffing (small amount for sunflower centers, optional)
  • Pins for assembly

Abbreviations

AbbreviationMeaning
chchain
sl stslip stitch
scsingle crochet
hdchalf double crochet
dcdouble crochet
trtreble crochet
incincrease (2 sc in same stitch)
decinvisible decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through 2 loops)
BLOback loop only (insert hook under back loop only of stitch)
FLOfront loop only (insert hook under front loop only of stitch)
MRmagic ring
rndround
reprepeat
st(s)stitch(es)
spspace

BLO: Working in the back loop only leaves the front loop free, creating a visible raised ridge — this gives the bag body its ribbed texture.
Magic Ring (MR): Make a loop with the yarn tail, insert hook through the loop, yarn over and pull up a loop, ch 1 (or as instructed), then work stitches into the ring and pull the tail to tighten the center closed.
Invisible decrease (dec): Insert hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then the front loop only of the stitch after that. Yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops. This creates a neater, flatter decrease than a standard sc2tog.


Pattern Instructions

PART 1: BAG BODY

The bag is worked in the round from the bottom up. The base is a flat oval; the sides are worked in BLO for ribbing.

Base:

  • Ch 16.
  • Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 14, 3 sc in last ch; working along other side of chain: sc 13, 2 sc in first ch; sl st to join. (32 sts)
  • Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc, sc 13, inc, inc, sc 13, inc; sl st to join. (36 sts)
  • Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc 1, inc, sc 13, inc, sc 1, sc 1, inc, sc 13, inc, sc 1; sl st to join. (40 sts)
  • Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc 2, inc, sc 13, inc, sc 2, sc 2, inc, sc 13, inc, sc 2; sl st to join. (44 sts)
  • Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc 3, inc, sc 13, inc, sc 3, sc 3, inc, sc 13, inc, sc 3; sl st to join. (48 sts)

Sides (BLO ribbing):

  • Rnds 6–34: Ch 1, sc in BLO of every st around; sl st to join. (48 sts each rnd)

Do not fasten off after Rnd 34. Proceed to rim.

Rim:

  • Rnd 35: Ch 1, sc in BOTH loops of every st around; sl st to join. (48 sts)
  • Fasten off and weave in ends.

PART 2: HANDLES (make 2)
  • Ch 80 (or adjust length for desired drop — each ch ≈ 0.5cm, so 80 ch ≈ 40cm chain length before joining).
  • Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in every ch across. (79 sts)
  • Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in every st across. (79 sts)
  • Fasten off, leaving a 30cm tail for sewing.

Fold handle in half lengthwise and whip stitch the long edge closed to form a rounded cord. Alternatively, twist two strands together before attaching for a twisted-rope handle as shown in the photo.


PART 3: SUNFLOWER (make 3)

Sunflower Center (dark brown/black):

  • MR, ch 1.
  • Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR; sl st to join. Pull tail to close. (6 sts)
  • Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in every st; sl st to join. (12 sts)
  • Rnd 3: Ch 1, [sc 1, inc] × 6; sl st to join. (18 sts)
  • Rnd 4: Ch 1, [sc 2, inc] × 6; sl st to join. (24 sts)
  • Rnd 5: Ch 1, [sc 3, inc] × 6; sl st to join. (30 sts)
  • Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in every st in BLO; sl st to join. (30 sts) — This creates a ridge that visually defines the center disk edge.
  • Fasten off with long tail.

Lightly stuff center disk with fiberfill before closing if desired.

Sunflower Petals (golden yellow):
Work petals directly off center front loops (FLO) left from Rnd 6, or separately and sew on.

For freestanding petals (make 10 per flower):

  • Ch 12.
  • Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st 1 into last ch; do not turn.
  • Working along other side of chain: sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, sl st 1.
  • Fasten off with tail for sewing.

Pin and sew 10 petals evenly around center disk, spacing them so petal tips fan outward. Each petal base attaches at the BLO ridge of Rnd 6.


PART 4: DAISY (make 4–5)

Daisy Center (pale yellow):

  • MR, ch 1.
  • Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR; sl st to join. (6 sts)
  • Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in every st; sl st to join. (12 sts)
  • Rnd 3: Ch 1, [sc 1, inc] × 6; sl st to join. (18 sts)
  • Fasten off with long tail.

Daisy Petals (white — make 8 per daisy):

  • Ch 10.
  • Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, sc 2, sl st 1 in last ch; do not turn.
  • Other side of chain: sl st 1, sc 2, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, sl st 1.
  • Fasten off with tail.

Sew 8 petals evenly around daisy center disk, overlapping slightly at the base.


PART 5: LEAVES AND VINES (make 8–12 leaves)

Leaf:

  • Ch 12.
  • Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 3, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st 1 in last ch; ch 1, do not turn.
  • Working back along other side of chain: sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 3, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st 1.
  • Fasten off with tail.

Vine (make 3–4):

  • Ch 20–30 in green.
  • Sl st in every ch back to start for a textured vine cord.
  • Fasten off with tails for attaching.

Assembly Steps

  1. Handles: Position one handle on the front of the bag and one on the back, each centered on the bag width. Handles should sit approximately 8cm apart at attachment points on each side. Using the long tail and a tapestry needle, stitch each handle end securely to the inside rim edge, sewing through 4–5 sts in a box pattern for strength. Each handle end attaches approximately 3cm below the rim top.
  2. Flowers: Lay the bag on a flat surface. Arrange 3 sunflowers and 4–5 daisies across the bag rim so they look like a full bouquet spilling over the top. Sunflowers should sit tallest at the back, with daisies filling in the front and sides. Pin each flower in place before sewing.
  3. Sewing flowers: Using the long yarn tails, stitch each flower base to the inner rim edge of the bag (Rnd 35), pulling the stitches tight so flowers stand upright or lean slightly outward. Each flower should sit so its base is approx. 1–2cm inside the bag rim.
  4. Leaves and vines: Tuck leaves between flowers and along the outer rim. Allow some to drape 3–5cm down the outside of the bag for a natural, overflowing look. Sew leaf bases to the rim or directly to flower bases.
  5. Vines: Loop vine cords loosely around flower stems and leaf bases. Tack down every 3–4cm with a single stitch to hold the curve. Vines should look naturally tangled among the flowers.
  6. Final check: Weave in all remaining ends. Give flowers a gentle press or shape with fingertips to open petals outward.

Beginner / Intermediate Tips

  • BLO ribbing: Keep consistent tension when working BLO. If your ribbing looks loose, drop one hook size for the body section only.
  • Petal consistency: For uniform petals, cut a cardboard template the length of your chain (about 11cm for sunflower petals) and compare each finished petal before sewing.
  • Flower stuffing: Even a tiny pinch of fiberfill in the sunflower center makes a noticeable difference in how dimensional the finished disk looks.
  • Handle strength: If you plan to carry weight in the bag, reinforce handle attachments by sewing a small square of felt or matching fabric on the inside of the bag at each attachment point before stitching the handle down.
  • Flower placement: Stagger flower heights by sewing some flowers slightly higher than others at the rim. This gives a realistic, loose bouquet silhouette.
  • Yarn ends in flowers: Thread all petal yarn tails through the back of the center disk before sewing the whole flower to the bag. This hides every end inside the disk and gives a clean back.

Variations

  1. Rose Garden Bag: Replace sunflowers and daisies with crochet roses in deep red, blush pink, and ivory for a romantic Valentine’s or wedding aesthetic. Use the same bag body and handle pattern.
  2. Autumn Harvest Bag: Work the bag body in burnt orange and swap flowers for crochet maple leaves, acorns, and small pumpkins in rust, gold, and deep brown for a fall market bag.
  3. Mini Basket Purse: Work the bag body over 32 sts instead of 48 and stop at Rnd 22 for a smaller crossbody-sized basket. Add a single long strap instead of two handles.
  4. Monochrome Garden Bag: Work bag body, flowers, and leaves all in shades of cream, ivory, and white for a tonal, elegant aesthetic that suits formal events.
  5. Kids’ Easter Basket: Skip handles and work in bright pastel yarns — pink, lavender, mint — with crochet chick and egg embellishments instead of flowers. Makes a beautiful reusable Easter basket.

If you make this crochet sunflower and daisy flower basket bag, save this pin and come back to it every spring! Share your finished bouquet bags with us — we love seeing every color variation and creative twist you bring to this pattern. Save it now so you always know where to find it, and tag your photos with #FoodieRippleCrochet so we can cheer you on.