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There is something undeniably charming about a tiny crocheted bee dangling from your keys, zipper pull, or backpack strap. This crochet bee keychain pattern creates a plump, striped little amigurumi bee complete with white wings, a cheerful face, and a metal keyring so it is ready to accessorize the moment you finish. The finished bee measures approximately 6 cm tall and 4 cm wide — small enough to be adorable, large enough that every stitch detail is visible and satisfying to make. Whether you are looking for a quick weekend project, a handmade gift idea, or a stash-buster for small yarn scraps, this free pattern is exactly what you need.
This pattern is rated beginner-friendly. If you know how to work a magic ring, single crochet, and increase and decrease stitches in continuous rounds, you have everything you need. The color changes for the stripes sound intimidating but follow a simple, repeating system, and step-by-step instructions below make the process smooth from start to finish.

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Difficulty
Beginner
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Time
1–2 Hours
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Hook Size
2.5 mm
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Yarn Weight
Sport (#2)
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Finished Size
6 cm tall
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Gauge
Gauge: 5 sc × 5 rows = 2.5 cm (1 inch) worked in continuous rounds with a 2.5 mm hook and sport weight yarn.
Working to gauge is recommended for this pattern since small size variations affect the proportions of the bee’s body significantly. Crochet a small 6-stitch flat circle and measure across the diameter — it should measure approximately 2 cm. Adjust hook size up if your work is too tight or down if too loose.
Hook size used: 2.5 mm (US B/1)
Yarn weight used: Sport weight / #2 Fine
Materials List
- Yellow sport weight yarn — approximately 10 g (main body color)
- Black sport weight yarn — approximately 5 g (stripes, antennae, and stinger)
- White sport weight yarn — approximately 5 g (wings)
- 2.5 mm crochet hook
- Two 6 mm black safety eyes
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing — small amount
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends and sewing pieces
- Metal keyring — 25 mm split ring
- Scissors
- Stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round
Abbreviations
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| MR | Magic ring (adjustable loop; pull tight to close) |
| sc | Single crochet |
| inc | Increase: work 2 sc into the same stitch |
| dec | Invisible decrease: insert hook through front loops of next 2 stitches, yarn over and pull through both, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook |
| sl st | Slip stitch |
| ch | Chain |
| BLO | Back loop only: insert hook through back loop of stitch only |
| FO | Fasten off |
| ( ) | Stitch count at end of round |
Magic ring: Make a loop with the yarn, insert your hook through the loop, pull up a loop of working yarn, chain 1 to start, then work the specified stitches into the center of the ring. Pull the tail end to close the hole. This creates a tight, seamless center for rounds.
Invisible decrease: Rather than inserting through the top V of two stitches as a standard decrease does, the invisible decrease goes through only the front loops of the next two stitches. This reduces the visible gap that standard decreases leave, resulting in a much neater finish on amigurumi work.
Pattern Instructions
Part 1: Bee Body
The bee body is worked in continuous rounds with color changes for the black stripes. Carry the unused color loosely up the inside of the work or cut and rejoin at each stripe — both methods work. Carrying gives a slightly bulkier inside; cutting and rejoining gives a neater interior.
To change color: On the last stitch before the color change, work until the final yarn-over of that stitch, then drop the current color, pick up the new color, and pull through. Continue with the new color on the next round.
Using yellow yarn:
Round 1: MR, work 6 sc into ring, pull ring closed. (6)
Round 2: Inc in each sc around. (12)
Round 3: [Sc in next st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times. (18)
Round 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st] repeat 6 times. (24)
Round 5: Sc in each st around. (24) — change to black on last yarn-over of round
Round 6: Using black yarn, sc in each st around. (24)
Round 7: Sc in each st around. (24) — change to yellow on last yarn-over
Round 8: Using yellow yarn, sc in each st around. (24)
Round 9: Sc in each st around. (24) — change to black on last yarn-over
Round 10: Using black yarn, sc in each st around. (24)
Round 11: Sc in each st around. (24) — change to yellow on last yarn-over
Round 12: Using yellow yarn, [sc in next 2 sts, dec] repeat 6 times. (18)
Now is the time to insert the safety eyes. Position them between rounds 5 and 6, approximately 5–6 stitches apart. Press the posts firmly through the fabric and attach the washers on the inside. Once washers are attached, safety eyes cannot be removed — double-check placement before securing.
Round 13: [Sc in next st, dec] repeat 6 times. (12)
Begin stuffing the body firmly with fiberfill now. The body should feel plump but not stretched. Continue stuffing as you work the final decreases.
Round 14: Dec 6 times around. (6)
FO, leaving a 10 cm tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and weave through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and secure. This is the stinger end of the bee.

Part 2: Wings (Make 2)
Wings are worked flat in rows and then attached at the sides of the body.
Using white yarn:
Foundation chain: Ch 7.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (6)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Inc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, inc in last st. (8)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (8)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (8)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc in next 4 sts, dec. (6)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec. (4)
FO, leaving a 15 cm sewing tail.
Part 3: Antennae (Make 2)
Using black yarn:
Foundation chain: Ch 8.
Round 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc in next 6 chs, work 3 sc in the final ch (this forms the rounded tip of the antenna), then turn and work back down the other side of the chain: sc in next 6 sts, sl st into the first ch to close. (16 total, including the 3 sc at the tip)
Working the second side of the chain: After reaching the end of the foundation chain, rotate your work 180 degrees and insert your hook into the unworked loops along the bottom of the original chain. Work back toward the starting point. This technique creates a filled, flat antenna shape rather than a hollow tube.
FO, leaving a 15 cm sewing tail.
Part 4: Keyring Loop
Using black yarn:
Ch 8, sl st into first ch to form a loop. FO, leaving a 10 cm tail on each end for sewing. Thread the keyring onto this loop before sewing it to the top of the bee.

Assembly Steps
- Attach keyring loop: Position the black loop at the very top center of the bee body, directly at the magic ring. Using the sewing tails and a yarn needle, stitch firmly through the top of the body several times in a figure-eight pattern to secure. The loop should protrude approximately 1 cm above the bee body so the keyring hangs freely. Weave in all ends inside the body.
- Attach wings: Position one wing on each side of the body, centered approximately at rounds 7–9 (the middle of the striped section). Each wing should sit horizontally, with the wider rounded end pointing outward and the narrower flat end (row 1) toward the body center. Using the sewing tail and yarn needle, stitch along the flat edge of the wing through the body fabric using whipstitch. Stitch through at least 6–8 points along the attachment edge to keep the wing flat and stable. Repeat for the second wing, mirroring the placement.
- Attach antennae: Thread the sewing tail of one antenna onto a yarn needle and push the needle down through the top of the bee body, entering approximately 1.5 cm to the left of center. Pull through to the inside and secure with several knots around interior yarn strands. Repeat for the second antenna, entering 1.5 cm to the right of center. The antennae should stand approximately 1–1.5 cm above the top of the bee body.
- Final check: Tug gently on all attachments to confirm they are secure. If any piece feels loose, use the yarn needle to reinforce the stitching from inside the body. Thread the metal split ring through the keyring loop.
Beginner and Intermediate Tips
Tight, even tension is the single most important factor in amigurumi. Loose tension creates visible gaps in the fabric that expose the stuffing inside. If you can see daylight through your stitches when you hold your work up to a light, go down one hook size.
Stitch markers are essential in continuous rounds. Since you never turn or chain at the end of a round, it is easy to lose count. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
Stuff firmly, but not stretched. Overstuffed amigurumi pulls the stitches apart and distorts the shape. You want the fiberfill to fill the interior without any tension on the outer fabric. Understuffed pieces look flat and floppy. Aim for a firm, round shape where the body holds its shape without assistance.
Carrying yarn vs. cutting at stripes. For beginners, cutting and rejoining at each stripe change is often neater and easier to control. Leave 10 cm tails and weave them in securely on the interior. As you gain confidence, carrying the yarn by twisting it with the working color every few stitches keeps the inside tidy without cutting.
Sewing antennae securely takes patience. Work slowly and pull the needle through in multiple directions before knotting. A loose antenna will flip sideways and spoil the bee’s expression.
Variations
1. Rainbow Bee: Replace the black stripes with purple and the yellow with a bright coral for a fantasy bee that coordinates with a colorful keychain collection.
2. Bumble Bee Trio Keychain: Make three bees in graduating sizes (increase the body by 2 extra rounds for a medium and 4 extra rounds for a large) and attach them all to one large lobster clasp for a whimsical hanging charm set.
3. Lavender Field Bee: Work the body in dusty lavender with white stripes. Add a tiny crocheted lavender sprig (chain 10, sl st down) between the antennae for a botanical boho look.
4. No-Sew Zipper Pull Version: Omit the keyring loop and instead attach the finished bee directly to a zipper pull ring. These make beautiful handmade gifts when paired with a handmade pouch or purse.
Love this free pattern? Save it to your crochet boards and tag your finished bees with #FoodieRippleCrochet — we would love to see your little buzzers!



