Crochet Daisy Granny Square Tote Bag — Free Pattern for a Boho Summer Carry-All

There is something endlessly cheerful about a bag that blooms. The Crochet Daisy Granny Square Tote Bag is one of those projects that earns compliments before it is even finished — the moment those white petals start popping against a warm taupe background, the whole thing starts to look like a garden in your hands. This free crochet pattern walks through every step of making a structured, everyday tote built entirely from daisy granny squares, joined seamlessly and finished with a graceful scalloped top edge and long twin shoulder handles. It is the kind of bag that works at a farmers’ market, a beach afternoon, a library trip, or anywhere a little handmade charm is welcome. If you have made granny squares before and are comfortable joining motifs, this pattern is well within reach.

Difficulty

Intermediate

Time

12–16 Hours

Hook Size

4.0 mm

Yarn Weight

DK / Light Worsted

Finished Size

36 cm × 32 cm

Gauge

Work a 10 cm × 10 cm gauge swatch in single crochet using your 4.0 mm hook and DK weight yarn before beginning. Gauge: 18 stitches × 20 rows = 10 cm in single crochet.

One completed daisy granny square measures approximately 9 cm × 9 cm blocked. Gauge is important for the finished bag size. If your squares are coming out larger, drop down to a 3.75 mm hook. If smaller, move up to a 4.5 mm hook.

Materials

Yarn A (Taupe/Linen): DK weight, approx. 280 m / 100 g — 2 skeins
Yarn B (White): DK weight, approx. 150 m / 50 g — 1 skein
Yarn C (Golden Yellow): DK weight, approx. 60 m / 25 g — 1 small skein or cake
Hook: 4.0 mm crochet hook
Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Scissors
Stitch markers (at least 4)
Blocking mats and pins (strongly recommended for granny squares)
Optional: Small leather or faux-leather bag label for center front, sew-on snap or magnetic clasp for closure

Abbreviations

Abbreviation	Meaning
ch	chain
sl st	slip stitch
sc	single crochet
dc	double crochet
hdc	half double crochet
sp	space
sk	skip
rep	repeat
BLO	back loop only
RS	right side
WS	wrong side
MC	main color (Taupe)
CC1	contrasting color 1 (White)
CC2	contrasting color 2 (Golden Yellow)
rnd	round
st(s)	stitch(es)
[ ]	repeat instructions inside brackets the number of times stated
( )	stitch count at end of round

Pattern Instructions

Part 1: Daisy Granny Square (Make 24)

Each square is worked in the round from the center outward. A magic ring is used to begin — to make a magic ring: loop yarn into a circle with the tail crossing over the working yarn, insert hook through the loop, draw up a loop, and chain as directed; pull the tail to close the center hole.

Round 1 (CC2 — Golden Yellow):
Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 dc into the ring, sl st to top of ch-3 to join. Pull magic ring closed. (12 dc)

Round 2 (CC1 — White):
Join CC1 with sl st to any st. Ch 1. [Sc in same st, ch 3, sk 1 st] 6 times, sl st to first sc to join. (6 sc, 6 ch-3 spaces)

Round 3 (CC1 — White — Petals):
Sl st into first ch-3 sp. Ch 1. Work (1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) into each ch-3 sp around — this creates 6 petals. Sl st to first sc to join. (6 petals, 42 sts total)

Round 4 (Yarn A — Taupe):
Join Yarn A with sl st to the back loop of any sc at the base of a petal. Note: Working into the BLO here — insert hook under only the back loop of the stitch — allows the petals to stand forward naturally.
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same BLO st. [Ch 2, 2 dc in BLO of sc at base of next petal] 5 times, ch 2, sl st to top of ch-3. (12 dc, 6 ch-2 sp)

Round 5 (Yarn A — Taupe — Square Shaping):
Ch 3, dc in same sp. 2 dc in next st. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp [corner], 2 dc in each of next 2 sts. Rep from * to * 5 more times, but note: only 4 of the 6 ch-2 spaces become corners. Work as follows:

(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into corner ch-2 sp, [2 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp] twice — rep 3 more times to complete 4 corners.
Sl st to top of ch-3. (48 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sp)

Round 6 (Yarn A — Taupe — Border):
Sl st to corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp [first corner made]. Dc in each st across side, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * to * around all 4 sides. Sl st to top of ch-3. (64 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sp)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block each square to 9 cm × 9 cm.

Part 2: Joining the Squares

You will need 24 squares arranged in a 4 × 6 grid (4 squares wide, 6 squares tall) for the bag body. The bag is worked flat and seamed at the sides.

Layout: Place squares RS up in your grid. Alternate the diagonal tilt direction of petals between squares for visual texture if desired.

Join Method (Flat Slip Stitch Join):
A flat slip stitch join creates a visible, slightly raised ridge on the RS — it gives the patchwork a graphic, structured look that suits this bag perfectly.

Hold two squares WS together. Join Yarn A with sl st at any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1. Sl st through both corner sp. Working along the edge, sl st through each corresponding stitch pair across the row. At the end, sl st through both corner ch-2 sp. Fasten off.

Join all squares into rows of 4, then join rows together to create the full panel (4 wide × 6 tall). Finished panel dimensions: approx. 36 cm × 54 cm.

Fold the joined panel in half so it measures 36 cm wide × 27 cm tall. Sl st the two side seams together using Yarn A. Leave top open. (This creates a tube with an open top.)

Part 3: Base (Optional Reinforcement)

For a sturdier base, work a flat rectangle in sc using Yarn A:

Ch 37. Turn.
Row 1–14: Sc in each ch across. (36 sc per row)

Work until rectangle measures approx. 36 cm × 10 cm. Sew to the bottom interior of the bag using a yarn needle and Yarn A, stitching through both layers all the way around the perimeter.

Part 4: Scalloped Top Edge

With RS facing, join Yarn A at one side seam at the top opening.

Rnd 1: Ch 1. Sc evenly around the entire top opening, placing 1 sc per stitch and 2 sc into each corner sp. Sl st to join. Count and adjust so total is divisible by 7.

Rnd 2 (Scallop): Ch 1. Sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st. Rep from * to * around. Sl st to first ch-1. Fasten off.

Part 5: Handles (Make 2)

With Yarn A, ch 101.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (100 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in BLO of each st across. (100 sc)
Rows 3–6: Rep Row 2.

Fold handle in half lengthwise (WS together) so it forms a flat strap approx. 1.5 cm wide. Sl st through both edges all the way along the long side to close. Fasten off.

Handle length when finished: approx. 48 cm (shoulder length).

Assembly Steps

Block all 24 squares to 9 cm × 9 cm before joining — this step is not optional for even, professional-looking seams.
Lay out squares in a 4 × 6 grid. Pin and join all horizontal seams first, then all vertical seams.
Fold joined panel in half. Seam both side edges using flat sl st join. Leave the top 27 cm open.
If adding the base rectangle, insert it into the bottom of the bag and stitch all the way around the perimeter with a yarn needle, approx. 0.5 cm from the edge.
Work the scalloped top edge as written.
Position handles: each handle end should sit approximately 9 cm from each side seam, measured from the outside edge inward. Pin both ends of each handle to the inside of the bag top edge, with ends overlapping 4 cm down from the opening.
Using a yarn needle and Yarn A, sew each handle end in a square stitch pattern (up, across, down, across) for maximum strength. Reinforce by stitching the square twice.
Optional: Sew a magnetic clasp or snap to the WS of the top edge, centered, 2 cm below the scalloped border.
Optional: Stitch a leather or faux-leather label to the RS center front of the bag between the 3rd and 4th rows of squares, centered horizontally.

Beginner & Intermediate Tips

Tension consistency across squares: Work all 24 squares in a single sitting if possible, or take note of your hook hold and tension before taking a break. Inconsistent tension between sessions creates uneven squares that are hard to block into shape.
Magic ring tightness: After completing Round 1, pull the tail end firmly and weave it in before proceeding. A loose magic ring will show as an open hole at the center of your daisy.
Petal pop: The BLO join in Round 4 is what makes the petals lift forward. If you accidentally work through both loops, the petals will lie flat against the background — go back and redo it.
Blocking matters more than usual here: Because granny squares curl at the edges naturally, blocking to exact dimensions before joining is what makes the seam lines sharp and straight.
Handle durability: The folded sc strap is already quite strong, but for very heavy loads, consider running a strip of grosgrain ribbon or twill tape inside the handle before seaming it closed.

Variations

Pastel Spring Bag: Swap the taupe for a soft sage green or dusty lilac, keep white petals and yellow centers. Work a matching pastel lining in cotton fabric.
Monochrome Textured Version: Work every round of the granny square in a single neutral — oatmeal, cream, or charcoal. The daisy shape becomes a subtle textural motif rather than a color contrast statement.
Mini Clutch: Reduce to a 2 × 3 grid of squares for a clutch measuring approx. 18 cm × 27 cm. Skip handles; add a zipper along the top.
Market Bag with Cotton Yarn: Use a lightweight cotton yarn at a 3.5 mm hook for a breezy, slightly drapey version that is machine washable — perfect for grocery runs or beach days.
Mixed Motif Tote: Alternate daisy squares with plain solid granny squares in taupe, creating a checkerboard-style grid. This uses less contrasting yarn and gives the bag a more graphic, modern look.

Love this pattern? Save it for later and share your finished bag on Pinterest using #FoodieRippleCrochet — it means the world to see your makes! 🌼